As I mentioned earlier there is a rating plate on the right-hand side of the unit if you’re ever calling tech services or talking to anybody from Bosch the first thing that they’re going to ask for is a model and serial number that’s located on the right-hand side of the unit you’ll notice here on the rating plate it’ll have your minimum and maximum BTU range in the upper right hand corner here you’ll notice an FD number that’s actually a serial number and you can see it in fine print right there some of the newer models don’t have this silver tape and it’ll just be written out with ink this particular barcode here is the serial number as well another thing .
You’ll want to notice if you have any inspectors who are asking you questions about certifications those are also located on this label at the very bottom any CSA or any other certifications that they’re looking for will be located on this rating plate and as I mentioned before and I can’t stress it enough when you’re putting on your valve kit the best thing to use and the only thing that you should really use is teflon tape this should go on the bottom threads and you’ll be able to thread up the unions on the valve kit itself straight up to it but once again pipe dope and sealant not a good idea whenever you’re doing this it’s a good idea to go with the actual threading of the thread itself so put it on to the right just like you were tightening up a fitting to it and you won’t rule it out so I have my valve kit.
I’ve already put the tape on the bottom of my fittings and the first thing that you can do with these most of them do have unions this particular one is threaded by sweat you can get them threaded by threaded as well and all you have to do is break the union at the top of it take that piece off and thread it up to the bottom of the unit itself pair of channellocks would do just fine I would suggest Hawley that you don’t use a large pipe wrench especially when you’re doing the gas line connection as this is aluminum.
I’ll just take these after you’ve connected the two tops of the unions to the water in and the water out the next thing that you’re going to want to do is you’re going to want to take your gas type teflon tape which is yellow and you’re also going to want to get yourself made up a drip leg section one of the biggest things that I ever see when I’m out in the field is that the guys will not install a full port 3/4 ball valve for the gas line now if you’re using track pipe Ward flex or any of the other corrugated type stainless steel gas lines make sure that you use their rating and their gas sizing whenever you’re installing one of these tankless water heaters um but if you’re using black iron that’s going to be located in the install guide that came with the unit that I showed you earlier so one of the more important things as well is that you’re going to want to use a drip leg minimum three inches this should be made out of black iron and then you can connect your Ward flex track pipe or whatever it is that you’re using up to that particular drip leg section one of the things.
I would avoid highly against is using a corrugated CSS tee unless the actual rating plate is rated for the maximum BTUs of the particular unit that you’re actually installing so this is definitely critical you’re going to want this 3/4 full port gas valve whenever you’re installing this so I will thread these up and as I mentioned earlier you’ll want the trap to be a minimum of 3 inches this is what your drip legs should look like full port 3/4 inch gas valve in its open position closed position now let’s put in the valve kit pressure relief valve and your blue tape rather than the gas type and there it is now in this particular install will be coming out of the wall and nineteen up it’s not really a typical install most of the time you’re either replacing a forty or fifty gallon water heater if they have a half-inch line can’t stress it enough you have to refer to the gas pipe sizing chart that’s in the manual but in this particular install we’ll be coming out of the wall and nine digging up into our fittings here if you are replacing a forty or a fifty gallon water heater you may have to come down you may have to come over but the easiest way to do any of the piping on the water side is to put your gas line in first.
So we’ll hook up the water lines now that we’ve got our copper water lines hooked up to our unit on our inlet side and our outlet side it’d be a great idea if you insulated these particular pipes it definitely helps out with the efficiency of the system itself the other thing that we installed was the pressure relief valve which is going down to our drain you want to get as close as possible to it at least within six inches now that we have the water lines in the next thing that we installed was our condensate drain as I had mentioned before we don’t want to glue up to that particular fitting on the outlet of the unit we want a quarter inch air gap for the condensate line to drain into as it drains down and comes across and back we’re going into a neutralizer this is available at your wholesaler.
The other thing whenever you do install this neutralizer you’re going to want to put a little slope on it towards the back and then of course coming out we want to go into a drain by no means do you ever pipe one of these things in copper there are no copper fittings that should be piped to this out of this whatever it may be no copper whatsoever I took the cover off to install the venting so I wouldn’t scratch the cover but the venting that we installed was a twin pipe configuration there are six different types of venting configurations that you can run with a Bosch water heater reviews condensing tankless water heater exhausting horizontal or vertical using room air for combustion concentric horizontal concentric vertical twin pipe horizontal twin pipe vertical and outdoor in climates that do not drop below 32 degrees Fahrenheit single vent to the outside as possible.